乔戈里峰的历史背景[组图]
K2: Some background and History
乔戈里峰的历史背景
The local name of K2 is Chogori, which in Balti language means the king of mountains. This name is little known outside of Pakistan. It is, therefore, desirable that - K2 be used.
K2在当地巴拉提土语的名字是“乔戈里”，意思是“群山之王”。这个名字在巴基斯坦国土之外极少为世人所知。因此，K2就成了理所当然的名字了。
K2 as seen from Concordia
从肯考迪娅峰眺望乔戈里峰
K2 has variously been described as the "awesome", "killer" and "savage" mountain. This is because of its massiveness in size and the numerous unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expeditions, including many American expeditions, who have made quite a few unsuccessful attempts.
乔戈里峰在不同的时间里曾被描述成“令人敬畏的”“杀手”和“野蛮之峰”。这是由于它高大魁伟的山姿，也由于包括美国登山队在内的许多登山队在乔戈里峰上都历经了无数次失败的攀登尝试。
K2 is a rocky mountain up to 6000 meters, beyond which it becomes an ocean of snow. The K2 peak is situated on the Pak-China border in the mighty Karakoram range. The traditional route to its base camp goes from Skardu, which is linked with Islamabad by a good road. From Skardu the route goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole up to Concordia over the Baltoro glacier. The exact height of the peak is 8,611 meters/28,251 ft.
乔戈里峰直到海拔6000米的地方都是岩石峰体，在这范围之上覆盖着一望无际的冰雪。乔戈里顶峰处于雄伟的喀喇昆仑山脉的中巴边境上。伊斯兰堡和斯卡都（巴基斯坦巴尔蒂斯坦首府）之间有条路况良好的大路相连接，因此通往大本营的传统路线都是从斯卡都起程的。从斯卡都出发，通过施迦--达苏--阿斯科尔直到巴尔托洛冰川上的肯考迪娅峰。乔戈里顶峰的确切海拔高度是8,611米（28,251英尺）。
It was in 1856, when the British were enforcing their control over India, provoking the 1857-War-of-lndependence, that a young Lieutenant of the Royal Engineers, T.G. Montgomerie, was quietly busy in surveying the mountains of Kashmir. During this survey he saw, in the far distance, a tall and conspicuous mountain in the direction of the Karakorams and immediately named it K1 (K stands for Karakorams). Later on, it turned out to be the beautiful mountain of Hushe valley in Khaplu area of Baltistan, called Masherbrum by locals. He also saw another tall and dominating summit behind K1 and named it K2, which turned out to be "Chogori". The name K2, however, still stands.
1856年，正当英国加强对印度的控制而引起了印度1857年独立战争的时候，一个年轻的英国皇家工兵陆军中尉T.G. 蒙特哥摩利正悄悄忙于勘察克什米尔境内的山峰。在他的勘察当中，他发现在遥远之处，有一座高大显著的山峰朝喀喇昆仑山脉地区方向屹立着，他立即将其命名为“K1”（K代表喀喇昆仑山脉）。之后，它被证明是巴拉提斯坦卡布鲁地区哈什山谷里一座美丽的山峰，当地土语称之为“马舒布鲁木峰”。他也看见了另一座高峰高耸在马舒布鲁木峰（K1）后面，并将之命名为“K2”，之后证明这就是“乔戈里峰”。然而，“K2”这个名字仍在使用。
Lieutenant Montgomerie was a good surveyor. He was the person who planned and organized the survey of Kashmir. He was also an unofficial political adviser to Gulab Singh, the then Maharaja of Kashmir. After Gulab Singhs death in 1857, Montgomerie continued his survey work as he carried the same influence with Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the successor of Gulab Singh. Montgomerie trained many locals in surveying. His students did good reconnaissance work in remote areas forbidden to foreigners because of local suspicions. A famous but unfortunate student of his was Muhammad Hameed.
蒙特哥摩利中尉是个不错的测量员。他策划组织勘察了克什米尔。他也是当时在位的克什米尔王公古拉·辛格的非官方政治顾问。1857年古拉·辛格王公驾崩后，由于蒙特哥摩利中尉具有和王公继承人马哈拉加·兰吉特?辛格一样的影响力，他得以继续他的勘察工作。蒙特哥摩利中尉还培训了许多当地测量员。因为当地人的猜忌，他的学生在遥远偏僻、禁止外国人进入的地区进行了不错的勘察工作。他有个著名但不幸的学生就是默罕麦德·哈米德。
In 1860, Captain Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, of the Survey of India, went to the Baltistan area and surveyed the famous Shigar and Saltoro valleys. This greatly contributed to the knowledge of the area. He was an officer in the 24th Foot Battalion, later the South Wales Borderers, and had also served in the Second Anglo- Burmese War in 1852. Earlier, he had joined Montgomerie at a survey station in Kashmir in 1857. He also surveyed the Kajnag range in southern Kashmir and was the first to put Gulmarg on the map. In 1858-59, he surveyed eastern Kashmir including Jammu. In 1861, he started from Skardu and entered Braldu valley from Skoro-La (5,043m). He then climbed and surveyed the Chogo-lungma, Kero Lungma, Biafo and Panmah glaciers. It was from Kero Lungma that Godwin-Austen climbed the Nushik pass (4,990m/1 6,371 ft) and is stated to have entered the 53-km-long Hispar glacier. He was perhaps the first European to reach it. He, however, did not survey it. He was considered as one of the greatest mountaineers of the day, had great power of endurance and was immensely brave. It is a myth that the K2 peak, which was erroneously called Godwin-Austen peak, was discovered by him. It is, however, a fact that he explored the gateway to K2 (the Baltoro glacier), along with famous glaciers including Godwin-Austen glacier. This was indeed his outstanding contribution to the geography of the area.
1860年，印度测量部门亨利·哈佛沙姆·戈德温-奥斯仃队长到巴拉提斯坦地区对著名的施迦和萨尔托洛山谷进行勘察。这对了解这个地区具有极大的贡献。他是第24步兵营的军官，之后居住在南威尔士边境地区(即威尔士南部和英格兰接壤边境)，他也曾在1852年第二次英缅战争中服过役。早在1857年，他曾加入到蒙特哥摩利中尉在克什米尔的勘察站。他也曾勘察过克什米尔南部的卡吉纳山脉，并首次将古尔马格峰画在地图上。1858年至1859年，他对包括查谟在内的克什米尔东部地区进行勘察。1861年，他从斯卡都出发，从海拔5,043米的斯科罗拉峰进入巴拉尔度山谷。然后他爬上乔戈-兰马，科罗兰马，比亚弗和潘马等冰川进行勘测。就是从科罗兰马冰川戈德温-奥斯仃爬上了海拔4,990米（16,371英尺）的努什克山口，据说还曾进入了长达53公里的希斯巴冰川。他很可能就是到达这一冰川的首位欧洲人。然而他并没有对这一冰川进行勘测。他具有强大的忍耐力和巨大的胆识，被誉为当时最伟大的登山家之一。被错误称为戈德温-奥斯仃峰的乔戈里峰是他发现的，这真是荒诞的说法。然而事实上，他探测到了通往乔戈里峰的门户—巴尔托洛冰川，和其他包括戈德温-奥斯仃冰川在内的一些著名冰川。
Another famous explorer of the area was Francis Younghusband (later knighted), a noted soldier and thrill-seeker. Showing his courage and tenacity in 1887, he crossed the Gobi desert from Peking and entered India by crossing Mustagh pass. It was during this journey that he saw K2. In this way he was the first European to cross Mustagh pass. He was also the first European to set eyes on K2 from the northern side. His guide on this inward journey was a former resident of Askole village, situated at the start of Baltoro glacier, who had been living on the other side of the mountain for a very long time. When he entered the village of Askole with his guide, Younghusband was extended due courtesies. His guide was, however, looked down upon because he had shown a foreigner the possible route of invasion. Subsequently in 1903-4, Sir Francis Younghusband became the head of the famous mission to Tibet.
另一个后来被授予爵位的探险家法兰西斯·扬哈斯本，是个著名的士兵和惊险小说迷。1887年，他显示了他的勇气和固执，从北京出发穿越了戈壁沙漠，从马兹他山口进入印度。就在旅途中，他首次见到了乔戈里峰。他是以这种方式穿越马兹他山口的首位欧洲人，也是首位从北面看到乔戈里峰的欧洲人。他返程的向导以前曾住在位于巴尔托洛冰川起点处的阿斯科尔村庄，在很长时间里曾一直住在山的另一边。当他和向导进入阿斯科尔村庄时，扬哈斯本被当地村民致以充分的礼节。然而他的向导则被蔑视，因为他已向外国人指出了可能的入侵路线。随后在1903至1904年，法兰西斯·扬哈斯本爵士成为了著名的驻藏代表团首脑。
It was probably for the first time in 1902 that an organized expedition of Oscar J.L. Eckenstein traveled to K-2 from Baltoro glacier. The expedition was without any guide. Its aim was to explore approaches to the mountain and possibly have a try on the peak. It was, however, harsh weather which prevented it from attempting the peak. The party however collected useful information about the upper Godwin-Austen glacier which was used as a stepping stone by expeditions in later years. Two members of the expedition - one a Swiss by the name of Dr. Jules Jacot Guillarmot and the other an Austrian by the name of Dr. V. Wesseley - succeeded in reaching 6523 meters (21,400ft) on the north-eastern ridge of K-2. The party also ascended Skyang La (6150 meters) to ascertain climbing possibilities of Skyang Kangri peak (7544 meters). Eckenstein was the first mountaineer who applied the principles of engineering to mountaineering and its equipment in Pakistan.
1902年，奥斯卡·J.L.艾肯斯坦率领的一个有组织的探险队可能是第一次从巴尔托洛冰川向乔戈里峰进发的。探险队没有雇佣任何向导。它的目标就是勘探出通往乔戈里峰的途径，可能还要尝试登顶。然而，恶劣的气候使得探险队无法尝试登顶，他们却收集到了关于戈德温-奥斯仃冰川地表层的有用信息，这些信息在随后几年里被探险队当作跳板加以使用。探险队有两位队员—瑞士人朱利斯·加科特·加勒莫特博士和奥地利人V.威斯利博士成功抵达乔戈里峰东北山脊海拔6523米（21,400英尺）的地方。探险队还攀登了海拔6150米的斯开昂拉峰以确定攀登海拔7544米的斯开昂堪格里峰的可能性。艾肯斯坦是在巴基斯坦把工程学原理运用到登山运动和装备上的首位登山家。
In 1909, a big Italian expedition under the leadership of resolute Luigi Amadeo Giuseppe (Duke of Abruzzi) the grandson of King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy reconnoitred K2. Its members produced a very good account of the expedition with photographs and accurate maps of Baltoro area. The Duke, however, rejected the southern and western ridges of the mountain for a climb. His party attempted the peak from the south-east ridge-which later came to be known as Abruzzi ridge - but could not proceed beyond 5560 meters because of problems with porters. The party, however, carried out a thorough reconnaissance of K2 from south to north-east. Vittono Sella, a photographer and a climber, accompanied the Duke on this expedition. Sella pass, near Godwin-Austen glacier, is named after him.
1909年，一支大型的探险队在意大利国王维多·艾蒙纽尔二世的孙子，性格坚决的刘易奇·阿玛迪奥·吉塞普（阿布拉兹公爵）的率领下对乔戈里峰进行勘探。探险队成员制定出了非常棒的附带有巴尔托洛地区相片和精确地图的探险报告书。然而公爵反对攀登南部和西部山脊。他的探险队尝试从东南山脊（即后来闻名于世的阿布拉兹山脊）登顶，但是在海拔5560米以上的地方，由于挑夫的问题没办法继续攀登。然而探险队从南到东北对乔戈里峰完成了彻底的勘探。探险队里陪同公爵来的还有登山家兼摄影师维托里奥·萨拉。戈德温-奥斯仃冰川附近的萨拉山口就是以他的名字命名的。
Two famous British mountaineers, Harold William Tilman and Eric Earle Shipton, explored and surveyed the north face of K2 and its subsidiary glaciers in 1937. Actually they were on a survey mission to Shaksgam valley when they also visited the Trango and Sarpo Laggo glaciers. They also explored and surveyed the famous Skamri glacier. Tilman was a famous explorer, mountaineer, sailor and writer. He also distinguished himself as a planter in Kenya.
1937年，英国两位著名的登山家哈罗德·威廉·提尔曼和艾力克·伊尔·施普顿对乔戈里峰北壁及其附属冰川进行了探险和勘测。事实上，当他们去特兰勾和萨坡拉勾冰川的时候，他们还参加了驻沙克斯甘山谷的一个勘测代表团。他们也对闻名遐迩的斯喀姆利冰川进行了探险和勘察。提尔曼是个著名的探险家，登山家，水手和作家。他也因是肯尼亚种植园主而闻名。
Shipton, on the other hand, was one of the significant explorers of the present century. He was Tilmans companion on most of the expeditions. Shipton was also Consul-General of India in Kashgar in 1940-42 and then in 1946-48.
另一方面，施普顿是20世纪重要的探险家之一。在大部分的探险中，他是提尔曼的同伴。1940年至1942年和1946年至1948年期间，施普顿任驻喀什葛尔的印度总领事。
In 1938, the American Alpine Club sponsored a reconnaissance party for a visit to K2 area. The party reached a height of 7925 meters after setting up eight camps. When compared with the heights climbed by previous expeditions, this seems to be a considerable advancement. Famous American mountaineers like Dr. Charles Houston and Robert Bates were in this party. Six Sherpas from Nepal were also on this expedition as porters etc. After a proper reconnaissance of the routes leading to K-2, the party rejected the north-west and north-east routes. Instead, it selected the south-east ridge (Abruzzi ridge). It was the shortage of food supplies that forced Houston and Petzoldt to return to lower altitudes. In the opinion of the party it was through this ridge that K2 peak could be climbed, which eventually proved correct.
1938年，美国阿尔卑斯俱乐部倡议创办了一支乔戈里峰勘测探险队。建立了8个营地之后，探险队抵达了海拔7925米的高度。和以前的那些探险队相比，这次探险结果似乎是一次相当可观的进步。像查尔斯·休斯顿医生和罗伯特·贝兹这些美国著名的登山家都参加了这个探险队。来自尼泊尔的六个夏尔巴人也在这个探险队当挑夫，等等。通过对通往乔戈里峰的路线进行彻底的勘测之后，探险队否决了西北和东北路线，相反，选择了东南山脊（阿布拉兹山脊）路线。由于食物供给短缺，迫使休斯顿和匹兹荷迪特返回较低的海拔高度。探险队的想法是，穿过这座山脊是能够爬上顶峰的，最后证明这是正确的。
The next year saw another American expedition on K2. It was led by Fritz Hermann Ernst Wiessner, a German-American chemist and mountaineer. The expedition, along with nine Sherpas, made very good progress on the already-identified south-east ridge. Two members and five Sherpas set up Camp VIII at about 7711 meters and left one member by the name of Dudley Wolfe in this camp as he had fallen sick. Wiessner, along with one Sherpa, went up to approximately 8382 meters. On their way back they found that Wolfe was short of food. They, therefore, hurriedly brought him down to camp VII and made him stay there. They then descended in search of food and aid but found all camps abandoned until they reached camp II. Immediately three Sherpas were sent to rescue Wolfe. They, however, did not return. In this way, Wolfe and the Sherpas died on the K2. What a tragic but heroic death.
次年，另一支美国探险队在德裔美国人化学家登山家福利兹·荷曼·恩斯特·维斯纳的率领下出现在乔戈里峰。探险队雇佣了9个夏尔巴人，在已探明的东南山脊上取得了非常好的进展。2位队员和5个夏尔巴人在大约海拔7711米的地方建立了8号营。由于队员达德里·沃尔夫病了，被留在了8号营。维斯纳和一个夏尔巴人爬上了大约海拔8382的地方。他们下撤返回途中发现沃尔夫的食物供给短缺。因此他们赶紧把他带下到7号营，让他待在那里。然后他们下撤去寻找食物和援救，但是知道他们抵达2号营才发现所有的营地都被遗弃了。维斯纳立即派3个夏尔巴人去营救沃尔夫，然而他们并没有返回。沃尔夫和这几个夏尔巴人就这样在乔戈里峰上长眠了。多么悲惨却英雄般的牺牲。
Another American attempt on K2 was made in 1953. The expedition leader was Dr. Charles Houston, who had also led the 1938 American expedition on this peak. Dr. Houston, a doctor and professor, is noted for his contribution to research on the effects of high altitude on human body and diseases originating from such effects. One Pakistani, late Colonel M. Ataullah, Vice President, Karakoram Club of Pakistan, accompanied the party. This time the party took porters from Hunza instead of Sherpas from Nepal. As against the previous expeditions, which entered Baltistan from Srinagar (in the Indian occupied Kashmir) through a very long route, the party flew into Skardu and then adopted the traditional route to K2 over Baltoro glacier. 1953年，第三支美国探险队在查尔斯·休斯顿医生的率领下尝试攀登乔戈里峰。休斯顿医生曾率领过1938年的美国探险队攀登过此峰，他是个医学教授，因为研究人体在高海拔上受到的影响及其影响导致的疾病所做出的贡献而闻名遐迩。时任巴基斯坦喀喇昆仑俱乐部副主席的巴基斯坦人前陆军上校M.阿陶拉也参加了这次探险活动。这次探险队没有从尼泊尔雇佣夏尔巴人做挑夫，而是雇佣了罕萨人。探险队没有像前支探险队一样从斯利那加（印控克什米尔地区首府）穿过一段很长的路进入巴拉提斯坦，而是乘飞机抵达斯卡都，采用穿越巴尔托洛冰川抵达乔戈里峰这条传统路线。
K2 Base Camp（乔戈里峰大本营）
It was at Camp VIII, at about 7772 meters that the party was hit by a blizzard which lasted many days. On the 7th of August one member, Arthur Gilkey, developed thrombophlebitis. In view of his serious condition it was decided to start descent in spite of bad weather. At the end of the day, the party was involved in a "fall on a steep slope as a result of a slip and tangling of ropes". Luckily nobody was seriously injured. Subsequently all members assembled at the nearby camp VII. Gilkey was secured on the snow slope with two ice axes until a party could be mustered to bring him across the slope to the camp. However, when three members of the party returned to Gilkey, they found that he had been swept away by an avalanche. It took rest of the party five hard days to reach the base camp. On reaching there, the party immediately started for Skardu because one of the members, George Bell, had very bad frost-bitten feet. In spite of their very best efforts, the Americans could not climb K2 from the south-east ridge.
在海拔7772米的8号营，探险队受到了持续了好几天的大风雪的袭击。8月7日，队员亚瑟?吉尔奇血栓恶化。考虑到他严重的身体状况，探险队不顾恶劣的天气决定立即下撤。在当天的未了，探险队“因为又滑又乱的结绳而坠落到陡峭的斜坡上”而陷入困境。幸运的是没人受重伤。随后所有队员在附近的7号营集合。吉尔奇被两支冰镐固定在雪坡上，很安全，直到探险队能够鼓起勇气穿过斜坡把他带到营地。然而当三名队员向吉尔奇走回去时，发现他已经被雪崩卷走了。余下队员花了五天时间才艰难抵达大本营。他们一抵达那里就立马向斯卡都起程，因为队员乔治·贝尔腿部被严重冻伤。尽管尽了最大努力，美国人还是没能从东南山脊攀登乔戈里峰。
In 1954, an Italian expedition came to Pakistan to try its luck on K2. It consisted of twelve climbers and four scientists and was led by veteran mountaineer, Professor Ardito Desio, who had come to these mountains with Italian expeditions before the World War II. Colonel M. Ataullah and Arshad Munir accompanied the expedition from Karakoram Club of Pakistan. Captain (later Lt. General) G.S. Butt was the liaison officer.
1954年，一支意大利探险队来到巴基斯坦想在乔戈里峰上碰碰运气。探险队由12名登山员和4名科学家组成，并由经验丰富的登山家阿迪托?迪塞奥教授率领；阿迪托·迪塞奥教授曾在二战前随意大利探险队来攀登过这些山峰。来自巴基斯坦喀喇昆仑俱乐部的陆军上校M.阿陶拉和阿沙德·默尼尔参加了这次探险活动。G.S.巴特上尉（后来任陆军中将）任联络官。
Poor weather hindered the progress of the party for a pretty long time. As soon as the weather cleared, the party made very good progress and set up camp II. It was at this camp that one of its members, Mario Puchoz, a 36-year old guide, died of pneumonia on the 21st June. It is believed that he had contracted high altitude pulmonary oedema (water on the lungs) which was not well known at the time and does not respond to antibiotics.
在相当长一段时间里，恶劣的天气阻碍了探险队的进展。天气一晴朗，探险队就取得了很好的进展并建立了2号营。6月21日，36岁的高山向导玛利奥·普卓兹教授在2号营罹患肺炎与世长辞。人们认为他患了高海拔肺水肿，那时人们并不很了解这种病，没想到要用抗生素来治疗。
The party established six more camps on the south-east ridge. Camp IX was a bivouac. On the 31st of July, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni started from the bivouac. They continued their assault and reached the summit at six in the evening. After staying for a while they started descending and reached Camp VIII round about eleven at night. In this way the saga of K2 ended.
探险队在东南山脊建立了6个营地，还建立了露营地9号营。7月31日，里诺·雷斯德里和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼从露营地出发继续冲顶，并于晚上6点登顶。在峰顶待了一会儿，他们开始下撤，大约晚上11点抵达8号营。就这样，乔戈里峰的传奇结束了。
The peak has now been climbed from almost all ridges.
现在，几乎从所有的山脊人们都已攀登过乔戈里峰了。
